 Good walking on the cliff path
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Day 3 - Ringmore - Salcombe
Author: Dave
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A pleasant surprise
The final cliff section before Salcombe
This particular week was the one we had the lowest expectations of with regard to remote clifftop paths and rugged coastline. We expecting just a slog along promanades, which while nice enough for some people wasn't what we were aiming for as part of our long distance route. This was just a week to connect the end of Cornwall with the Jurrasic coast portion of Devon and Dorset. However, yesterday had been pretty good. Today's walk turned out to be way better than we had hoped, with scenary reminiscent of the Cornish coast.
The day started, as always with breakfast. We walked into the dining room at the B&B to be confronted by what can only be described as a banquet. A platter of fresh fruit, yogurts, a variety of cereal and home made preserves and jams. Then of course there was the fryup. No cheap bacon or sausages here, but good quality stuff and plenty of it. We stuffed our faces ready for the day's walk and in the knowledge we didn't know when we would get lunch.
Today's walk should have started with a ferry crossing over the River Avon. Unfortunately, we had made a rare miscalculation in our planning on this occasion and the ferry did not run on a Sunday. Fortunately, the friendly proprieter offered to give us a lift round the the ferry terminal on the other side of the river - a fairly substantial distance and several hours walking or a twenty minute drive. Having dropped us off at the slipway, 50 yards away from the other slipway across the river where I'd stood the previous afternoon, we thanked our man and offered a couple of quid to cover his fuel.
And we were off on day 3. Unfortunately the weather had closed in overnight and we set off into a slight mist and light rain.The rain never really came to anything but the clouds stayed low and oppressive. The going was easy and pleasant enough up to this point and we dropped down onto the beach where the walking is a bit easier on the feet. We left the beach and the path took an inland route up a steep lane. Half way up we heard some people coming up behind us. Their names were Dave and Jen who were also walking the path. They were doing it in short bursts just a few days at a time. On this occasion, they were based at Salcombe and had caught the bus out and were walking back. The previous day they had walked the section east of Salcombe and had some useful tips and information on diversions around areas where there had been cliff subsidence. They also gave us the top tip on the best pub to eat at in Salcombe. (Victoria Inn in case you were wondering).
The day started, as always with breakfast. We walked into the dining room at the B&B to be confronted by what can only be described as a banquet. A platter of fresh fruit, yogurts, a variety of cereal and home made preserves and jams. Then of course there was the fryup. No cheap bacon or sausages here, but good quality stuff and plenty of it. We stuffed our faces ready for the day's walk and in the knowledge we didn't know when we would get lunch.
Today's walk should have started with a ferry crossing over the River Avon. Unfortunately, we had made a rare miscalculation in our planning on this occasion and the ferry did not run on a Sunday. Fortunately, the friendly proprieter offered to give us a lift round the the ferry terminal on the other side of the river - a fairly substantial distance and several hours walking or a twenty minute drive. Having dropped us off at the slipway, 50 yards away from the other slipway across the river where I'd stood the previous afternoon, we thanked our man and offered a couple of quid to cover his fuel.
And we were off on day 3. Unfortunately the weather had closed in overnight and we set off into a slight mist and light rain.The rain never really came to anything but the clouds stayed low and oppressive. The going was easy and pleasant enough up to this point and we dropped down onto the beach where the walking is a bit easier on the feet. We left the beach and the path took an inland route up a steep lane. Half way up we heard some people coming up behind us. Their names were Dave and Jen who were also walking the path. They were doing it in short bursts just a few days at a time. On this occasion, they were based at Salcombe and had caught the bus out and were walking back. The previous day they had walked the section east of Salcombe and had some useful tips and information on diversions around areas where there had been cliff subsidence. They also gave us the top tip on the best pub to eat at in Salcombe. (Victoria Inn in case you were wondering).
Dave with a vantage point overlooking the trail
Soar Mill Cove
We parted company with Dave and Jen just before Hope cove as they were going at a faster pace than us. As it turned out it was their loss as they missed out on another one of Jason's interesting stories from a childhood holiday. No catapillars involved this time, but a tale of how he tied his leg to a garden gate with a washing line and couldn't get it undone and had to scream for help from his mum to come out and rescue him. We passed the actaul cottage and I got to see the actual gate. The washing line was no where to be seen.
We descended down into Hope Cove and thought it a good plan to buy a sandwich and drink for our lunch later in the day. The only shop open was the post office and the selection of choclate bars and sweets was extensive but the sandwiches were all out - empty space on the shelves. It's Sunday; no delivery. So, with an apple each and a bag of sour teddy bears we set off again. The path now climbed up towards some more rugged looking cliffs.
The next stage of the path was quite impressive with towering rocky monoliths, secluded sandy bays and a good open trail that looped round the outcrops and swooped up and over grassy headlands. after a couple of hours the track turned to a rocky footpath hugging the edge of a cliff with a stone wall and a rusty old steel handrail to stop people falling over the sheer drop into the sea crashing over the rocks below. At this point we passed a couple coming the other way. They were dressed in nice clean cloths with footwear that would have been more appropriate for walking around a shopping centre. They seemed to be having some difficulty negotiating the rough path and she seemed to be more worried about getting her trousers dirty from the puddles. There was a bit of a breeze and I did think a coat may have been useful for them especially as it was still threatening to rain. Still, they had managed to remember their mobile phones but seemed perplexed by the lack of signal with which to send what I can only guess was a very important text or Facebook update. Without much sympathy we carried on and not long after came to Salcome South Sands where we found a cafe with tables on the slip way at the top of the beach. We stopped for a quick brew and Panini while watching the strange motorised contraption that took passangers down and a few yards into the sea to board the ferry. the sun came out and as we were again making good time we decided to have another brew or three and watch the world go by. After a pleasant hour and a half we left our beachside perch and headed for Salcombe and our B&B.
We descended down into Hope Cove and thought it a good plan to buy a sandwich and drink for our lunch later in the day. The only shop open was the post office and the selection of choclate bars and sweets was extensive but the sandwiches were all out - empty space on the shelves. It's Sunday; no delivery. So, with an apple each and a bag of sour teddy bears we set off again. The path now climbed up towards some more rugged looking cliffs.
The next stage of the path was quite impressive with towering rocky monoliths, secluded sandy bays and a good open trail that looped round the outcrops and swooped up and over grassy headlands. after a couple of hours the track turned to a rocky footpath hugging the edge of a cliff with a stone wall and a rusty old steel handrail to stop people falling over the sheer drop into the sea crashing over the rocks below. At this point we passed a couple coming the other way. They were dressed in nice clean cloths with footwear that would have been more appropriate for walking around a shopping centre. They seemed to be having some difficulty negotiating the rough path and she seemed to be more worried about getting her trousers dirty from the puddles. There was a bit of a breeze and I did think a coat may have been useful for them especially as it was still threatening to rain. Still, they had managed to remember their mobile phones but seemed perplexed by the lack of signal with which to send what I can only guess was a very important text or Facebook update. Without much sympathy we carried on and not long after came to Salcome South Sands where we found a cafe with tables on the slip way at the top of the beach. We stopped for a quick brew and Panini while watching the strange motorised contraption that took passangers down and a few yards into the sea to board the ferry. the sun came out and as we were again making good time we decided to have another brew or three and watch the world go by. After a pleasant hour and a half we left our beachside perch and headed for Salcombe and our B&B.
South Milton Sands
The strange ferry transport contraption at South Beach
As we walked along the road, our arrival to the outskirts of Salcombe became obvious by the mansions overlooking the sea, surrounded by high walls and electric gates all festooned with CCTV cameras. Not to mention the numerous Aston Martins, Rolls Royce, Range Rovers and other expensive vehicles. Many of these were driven at inappropriate speed for a narrow road with no footpath and a fair few people walking along had to take speedy action to avoid being mown down. As we got further down towards the town a few shops started to spring up selling trendy yachting wear (think cheap looking deck shoes for £100 and shirts for nearly twice that). Ideally, if we had jumpers with us we should have draped them over our shoulders with the arms draped down our front to fit in with the crowd. Mind you, our dishevelled, unshaven look and unpleasant damp towel odour may have given us away as perhaps not being the owners of a mansion or £500k boat moored in the harbour. I was starting to think this place was going to be a little pretentious for a couple semi-vagrants like us.
We found the B&B, checked in and headed down to the town for a pre dinner pint and scout the options. Captain Flint's restaraunt was closed so we had to try and find another nautical themed establishment to dine in. We popped into The Fortescue for a pint and a bag of pork scratchings which worked up our appetite for something a little more substantial. We went for another wander and came across the Victoria Inn, as reccommended earlier in the day by Dave and Jen. The pub is famous for it's outstanding fish & chips by all account, so naturally Jason had the specialty and I had....a curry, obviously. We washed it down with another pint and were about to go, as the next day was going to be quite a tough one, When Dave and Jen walked in. We got another round in and had a chat. In fact we chatted about quite a lot - shared taste in music, the trials and tribulations of tomorrows route and other good pubs we had been in during the trip. Fortunately, as it was Sunday, closing time forced us back to the accommadation before we could consume hangover inducing volumes of beer which is surely where it was heading. We wished them good luck with the rest of the path and headed off up the hill to our beds.
We found the B&B, checked in and headed down to the town for a pre dinner pint and scout the options. Captain Flint's restaraunt was closed so we had to try and find another nautical themed establishment to dine in. We popped into The Fortescue for a pint and a bag of pork scratchings which worked up our appetite for something a little more substantial. We went for another wander and came across the Victoria Inn, as reccommended earlier in the day by Dave and Jen. The pub is famous for it's outstanding fish & chips by all account, so naturally Jason had the specialty and I had....a curry, obviously. We washed it down with another pint and were about to go, as the next day was going to be quite a tough one, When Dave and Jen walked in. We got another round in and had a chat. In fact we chatted about quite a lot - shared taste in music, the trials and tribulations of tomorrows route and other good pubs we had been in during the trip. Fortunately, as it was Sunday, closing time forced us back to the accommadation before we could consume hangover inducing volumes of beer which is surely where it was heading. We wished them good luck with the rest of the path and headed off up the hill to our beds.
