Weather finally starting to break
|
Day 1 - St Ives - Pendeen
Author: Jason
Statistics:
|
Best laid plans...
Oh dear, this couldn't be a worse start to one of the toughest stages of the SWCP if we'd tried. Not only was it absolutely hammering it down with rain – as it had been all night – but we both had hideous hangovers following our exploits the night before. It was the sort of day where you just want to sit indoors and watch the rain through a window. Unfortunately, we didn't have that option.
After donning our waterproof gear in the hotel lobby we slung on our backpacks - which felt even heavier than usual - and trudged out into a rain soaked St Ives. We were in such a state early on that we even managed to go wrong a few times while walking through the streets of St Ives, but finally managed to locate the coastal path where it resumed on the western edge of town at Porthmeor Beach.
The first section of the walk was pretty tough going. Underfoot if was very muddy, and the footpath was filled with large puddles that needed to be negotiated. At various points wooden planks has been laid down over particularly boggy sections, but these were covered with mud and proved to be very slippery. During the first hour we probably covered less than a kilometre. At this rate we'd be arriving in Pendeen at about midnight.
Eventually the going improved marginally as we picked up a better path that headed out closer to the clifftop. This improved route eventually turned out to not be the official path, but is was certainly a bit easier going underfoot. Eventually our path took us down to Carn Naun Point which had a spectacular view from it. The problem was we couldn't see it, as it was covered in low rain filled cloud. From Carn Naun Point there was a trudge up a steep slippery slope to rejoin the footpath proper. This involved a lot of wading though long wet grass, which resulted in Dave's boots getting wetted out and finally leaking. My left boot had also leaked a bit, but thankfully wasn't too bad.
After Carn Naun the quality of the footpath improved and we managed to pick up the pace a bit. The weather also started to break as the rain become more intermittent, finally stopping completely at around mid morning. The going was still tough though, with a relentless series of climbs and descents to remote coves. One of the things that makes this stage so tough is it's remoteness. Between St Ives and Pendeen we wouldn't pass any civilisation, see any roads, or for that matter any other walkers!
After donning our waterproof gear in the hotel lobby we slung on our backpacks - which felt even heavier than usual - and trudged out into a rain soaked St Ives. We were in such a state early on that we even managed to go wrong a few times while walking through the streets of St Ives, but finally managed to locate the coastal path where it resumed on the western edge of town at Porthmeor Beach.
The first section of the walk was pretty tough going. Underfoot if was very muddy, and the footpath was filled with large puddles that needed to be negotiated. At various points wooden planks has been laid down over particularly boggy sections, but these were covered with mud and proved to be very slippery. During the first hour we probably covered less than a kilometre. At this rate we'd be arriving in Pendeen at about midnight.
Eventually the going improved marginally as we picked up a better path that headed out closer to the clifftop. This improved route eventually turned out to not be the official path, but is was certainly a bit easier going underfoot. Eventually our path took us down to Carn Naun Point which had a spectacular view from it. The problem was we couldn't see it, as it was covered in low rain filled cloud. From Carn Naun Point there was a trudge up a steep slippery slope to rejoin the footpath proper. This involved a lot of wading though long wet grass, which resulted in Dave's boots getting wetted out and finally leaking. My left boot had also leaked a bit, but thankfully wasn't too bad.
After Carn Naun the quality of the footpath improved and we managed to pick up the pace a bit. The weather also started to break as the rain become more intermittent, finally stopping completely at around mid morning. The going was still tough though, with a relentless series of climbs and descents to remote coves. One of the things that makes this stage so tough is it's remoteness. Between St Ives and Pendeen we wouldn't pass any civilisation, see any roads, or for that matter any other walkers!
Zennor Head towards Gurnard's Head. Pendeen Lighthouse can just be seen in the far distance.
A fine spot for lunch
Eventually after what seemed an age we reached Zennor Head and we were able to see Pendeen Watch lighthouse in the very far distance for the first time. It looked a very long way away. In fact it was still over 7 miles away. We decided to have a quick sit down and break out the emergency rations as it was a fine spot to take in the view. The emergency rations consisted of an extra hot Peperami each. These little beauties may not offer much in the way of a nutritional punch, but they sure are tasty. Just the job for a mid morning snack. We always make sure we have a couple in the bottom of the rucksacks for such “emergencies”.
After Zennor the going was still quite arduous, but the sun had finally come out and the going underfoot had improved massively. There was still a lot mud about though. This led to me to suffer from a severe case of “mud creep”. This is where the mud at the bottom of your waterproof trousers slowly makes it's way up your leg via the action of your legs rubbing together. Eventually the mud makes it's way right up to the crutch area. Not a great look!
Near Bosigran we came across some ruined buildings at the bottom of a secluded valley and decided to take a break for lunch. I took the opportunity to remove my waterproof trousers as it looked like we'd seen the last of the rain for the day. Even if we hadn't I'd decided that wet trousers were the lesser of two evils versus boil-in the-bag waterproofs and a groin that resembled an aerial photo of the Glastonbury festival site.
After Zennor the going was still quite arduous, but the sun had finally come out and the going underfoot had improved massively. There was still a lot mud about though. This led to me to suffer from a severe case of “mud creep”. This is where the mud at the bottom of your waterproof trousers slowly makes it's way up your leg via the action of your legs rubbing together. Eventually the mud makes it's way right up to the crutch area. Not a great look!
Near Bosigran we came across some ruined buildings at the bottom of a secluded valley and decided to take a break for lunch. I took the opportunity to remove my waterproof trousers as it looked like we'd seen the last of the rain for the day. Even if we hadn't I'd decided that wet trousers were the lesser of two evils versus boil-in the-bag waterproofs and a groin that resembled an aerial photo of the Glastonbury festival site.
Our washing drying on the chalet balcony
By mid afternoon both my and Dave's feet were hurting. This was par for the course for me, but unusual for “Mr Iron Feet” Dave. His problems were the result of his feet being wet and shrivelled for the best part of the day. He was also still suffering from the night before. To ease the pain we decided that when we reached Pendeen Watch we'd grab some refreshments from the ice cream van in the car park. This master plan only had one minor flaw - there was no ice cream van at Pendeen Watch. All was not lost though, as a few miles ahead we'd be passing through an old tin mine that now operated as a museum. I'd visited the museum a few years before while holidaying in the area and distinctly remembered that there was a cafe there. The plan was to have a quick brew in the cafe, then do the guided tour. Well, Dave was planing to do the tour, I was planning to stay in the cafe as I'd already done it. Unfortunately, the museum was obviously run by the same management company that ran the station cafe on the Tarka Trail between Barnstaple and Bideford, and was closed. This despite it being a Saturday in May.
The trudge into Pendeen was fairly painful for both of us due to sore feet, and was probably the closest I've come to seeing Dave's "engine light" on the entire trip. We finally reached the pub we were staying at and where shown by the landlord to our room. Actually, chalet is probably a better description, as it was a self contained building totally separate from the pub. We quickly settled in. In no time we'd lowered the tone to our level by getting our freshly sink washed underwear out on the chalet's balcony to dry. This attracted some peculiar looks from the group of pensioners playing bowls in the pub garden.
Once refreshed we headed into the pub for an excellent home made curry and a pint. Yes, you heard it right, a singular pint! We were both knackered and still suffering a bit from the night before. This meant that this evening we did actually get a well needed early night.
The trudge into Pendeen was fairly painful for both of us due to sore feet, and was probably the closest I've come to seeing Dave's "engine light" on the entire trip. We finally reached the pub we were staying at and where shown by the landlord to our room. Actually, chalet is probably a better description, as it was a self contained building totally separate from the pub. We quickly settled in. In no time we'd lowered the tone to our level by getting our freshly sink washed underwear out on the chalet's balcony to dry. This attracted some peculiar looks from the group of pensioners playing bowls in the pub garden.
Once refreshed we headed into the pub for an excellent home made curry and a pint. Yes, you heard it right, a singular pint! We were both knackered and still suffering a bit from the night before. This meant that this evening we did actually get a well needed early night.
